All Cook Must Study Here’: Modest Turkish Restaurant Earns Fourth on Ranking of London’s Top Dining Destinations.

When curating a roll of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred venues. However, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a distant area of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks a family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.